Aditi's Monologue

(And My Daughter Discovered Unlimited Appams)

Yes, here’s a long overdue travel update from me. We finally visited Kerala and stayed at the Leela Kovalam – a Raviz Hotel for our family trip, and this is a review of the same.

To set some context, I still travel a lot, like the times when this website used to be 75% travel (remember those days?), but I write about it a lot less now. Because… well, because it seems that the world is moving towards visual storytelling, and I have no time and/or talent to do that. But every now and then, I do want to document a trip, mainly to commit it to memory and to help someone who might be looking for similar info like me – basic but honest info like, is the destination really as good as the internet says, is the property teenager-friendly, is the AQI lower than NCR. The answer to the last one is mostly yes for most places, but you know what I mean. So here is a review of a property that we recently stayed at as a family of three – my husband, our teenage daughter, and moi.

Our daughter and I usually spend Diwali break wherever the husband is posted – which is always a green and clean cantonment area in some remote part of the country – perfect for us! But this Diwali i.e. Oct 2025, we were all in Gurgaon, and we did something we’d been meaning to do for years: escape Delhi NCR’s pollution and the confusing yet biting pre-winter chill for the warm, breezy coastline of Kerala. We have been to some parts of Kerala before, but Kovalam was a conscious choice for this trip. My choice, because about a year ago, out of nowhere, I felt a strong urge to visit Shree Padmanabhswamy Temple.

I knew about the temple before that, of course, and you already know how much I am drawn towards history – my posts about my Israel Trip and my experience of going on an international cruise for the first time still see a considerable amount of hits every week. But I did not know about the Shree Padmanabhswamy Temple in detail. Then, approximately a year back, during a super late-night conversation wiht my cousin, I learned about this particular temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu, its history, the lore behind it… and since then, I found myself yearning to visit it.

So as Diwali 2025 drew closer, pollution in the city became stronger, and we realized that this was the perfect time to travel – the husband suggested we fly to Kovalam. We had 4 days, and time was of the essence. We started to look for flights.

Oh, but before that, we had to pick a property, a hotel that would meet our requirements. Travelling with kids is an art we’ve learnt over the years by learning to adapt our travel style to the kid’s comfort, and now that the kid is a teenager, our requirements have changed yet again. Our search ended at The Leela Kovalam for this family trip. And let me tell you, The Leela Kovalam was exactly the kind of escape we needed.

It was a very easy decision to book our stay, to be honest. Perched dramatically on a cliff overlooking the Arabian Sea, this isn’t just a resort. It’s 67 acres of lush greenery, royal history, and that rare combination of luxury that doesn’t feel stuffy. My 13-year-old daughter summed it up perfectly on Day 2: “This place feels like a palace, but the vibe is relaxed – like a palace for vacation alone.”

The Travancore royal family did use the palace here as their summer vacation home.

So what my daughter said: Accurate.

A Bit About Kovalam (And Why It’s Perfect for North Indian Residents Right Now)

Kovalam, which translates to “grove of coconut trees,” has been on travelers’ radars since the 1930s when Maharani Sethu Lakshmi Bayi of Travancore built her beach retreat here. Interestingly, the Halcyon Castle is now part of The Leela property itself. What was once a quiet fishing village is now one of Kerala’s most beloved beach destinations, known for its crescent-shaped beaches, Ayurvedic wellness centers, and that laid-back coastal vibe that makes you forget deadlines (or homework) exist.

And for those of us from North India? It’s the perfect antidote to winter. While Delhi NCR’s AQI crossed 400 and people were starting to layer up for the cold, Kovalam offered warm sunshine, sea breeze, and air you can actually breathe. Win-win-win.

The Leela Kovalam, A Raviz Hotel Property: India’s Only Clifftop Beach Resort

The Leela Kovalam isn’t just another luxury resort. It’s India’s only clifftop beach resort, designed by the legendary architect Charles Correa. Yes, I cross-checked it when the hotel staff told us during our welcome. The property seamlessly blends traditional Kerala architecture of whitewashed walls, red-tiled roofs, open courtyards with modern luxury. And at its heart? The historic Halcyon Castle (now called The Kovalam Palace), which (like I mentioned above) once served as the summer residence of the Travancore royal family.

Walking through the resort feels like stepping into a living postcard. Every turn offers a view: the Arabian Sea stretching endlessly, palm trees swaying in the breeze, sundecks where you can sip your morning cold coffee while watching the waves crash below.

The resort also has a separate Club wing, right outside the reception area, which is reserved for club members. It has rooms as well as a very tempting infinity pool, and I assume that the dining is the same as the rest of the guests of the resort.

Next to the Club is the Sky Bar, an open area that serves as an opulent bar. The bar area overlooks the vast expanse of the cliff and is a very visually appealing deck where you can enjoy drinks and snacks.

My favourite part of the stay – and this might sound silly – was the buggy ride from the reception towards our villa. It’s a winding road alongside the beautiful resort’s ocean view rooms on one side, and the cliff on the other. At one of the main turns on this road, a few wooden benches are placed, with probably the best and definitely the most uninterrupted view of the waves crashing down. Gosh, it is LOVELY. We found ourselves on these benches after almost every meal at the main restaurant.

And of course, the resort has won multiple awards, including “Best Hotel in Tourism” at the Made in Kerala Awards, and was named among the World’s Best Hotel Brands by Travel + Leisure. And honestly? It shows. From the moment we arrived, the service was impeccable without being intrusive. The staff remembered our names, my daughter’s juice preferences, and made our Diwali special with a traditional themed high tea complete with crackers.

Our Garden View Villa: Spacious, Comfortable, and Right by the Pool

We stayed in a Garden View Villa, and it was perfect (size-wise) for a family of three. I would have loved to stay at the Royal Club Duplex Suite, but I did not know about it at the time of booking. Sad, I know. AT that time, we wanted to book any room with a sea view that’s spacious enough for the three of us and our suitcases. But alas, we were very late and the only accommodation option avaliable for our dates was a garden villa. Apparently, a lot of people wiht better future planning capabilities than us were spending the Diwali vacations there.

Anyway, it was a pleasant surprize! Our villa was not only spacious enough that my daughter had her own corner to spread out her books and art supplies, comfortable beds, a good-sized washroom, but it also had direct access to the pool area. This is where we ended up spending most of our time, thanks to the easy access.

The villa’s traditional Kerala architecture (wooden furniture, authentic motifs, that classic kudil cottage aesthetic) made it feel grounded and elegant. But the modern amenities like air conditioning, complimentary Wi-Fi, and those luxurious Tishya bathroom products reminded us we were firmly in 5-star territory.

My daughter’s favorite part after the pool that we could walk to from our terrace? The hammocks on the villa’s lawn. She spent a good amount of time swaying in them, reading her book, living her best life.

Dining: A Food Festival, Live Counters, and My Daughter’s Appam Obsession

The dining experience at The Leela Kovalam deserves its own paragraph. During our stay, the main restaurant “The Terrace” was running a state special menu every day with live counters and rotating regional cuisines. One night it was Kerala specialties (appam, fish curry, Kerala parotta), the next it was Mughlai cuisine, and so on.

The variety was incredible, the quality even better, and the service? Flawless. The chefs at the live counters were happy to customize dishes, explain ingredients, and even share recipes.

I want to expand on the Diwali special high tea the resort organized here. Traditional Kerala snacks, sweets, savories, and a mini cultural celebration with diyas, music, and that warm festive energy. My daughter, who usually has very specific (read: picky) food preferences, ate everything.

At The Leela Kovalam, she discovered her love for appams and proceeded to have them for breakfast, lunch, and sometimes dinner for four days straight. Me too, obviously.

No regrets. I mean, when in Kerala, right?

And here me out on the appams, okay. We have had appams before, I assure you. But we usually get them along with other items like Dosai, Rasam, Iddiappams etc. Typical North Indian ordering habits when it comes to South Indian cuisine, we order one of each. But here at The Leela Kovalam, we got to have a non-stop supply from the get-go – I don’t want to overtly generalize it (because it might be the case wiht more hotels and resorts across South India that I am yet to visit) but fresh hot fluffy dreamy appams came to the table like naans and tandoori rotis in Delhi – frequently and non stop. It’s kinda making my mouth water even right now, why lie.

The Spa: Treatments and That Post-Massage Glow

If you visit The Leela Kovalam and don’t book a spa treatment, you’re doing it wrong. The spa here isn’t just good, it’s spectacular. I mean, this is Kerala after all.

Ayurvedic treatments, therapists who genuinely know their craft, and that post-massage glow that makes you look like you’ve cracked the secret to eternal youth. My husband and I both had massages, and honestly, we floated through the rest of the day.

The spa also offers yoga sessions, which we didn’t get to try this time (my daughter vetoed it in favor of more pool time), but several guests we spoke to raved about it. Next trip, for sure.

Things to Do Around The Leela Kovalam

Now, let me tell you the other things we did at Kovalam, besides enjoying the resort. While the resort itself is designed to make you never want to leave (mission accomplished), we did venture out a few times to explore the area. Here’s what we loved:

1. Shree Padmanabhaswamy Temple

Like I mentioned, this was my main reason for the Kovalam trip. And the experience was nothing short of magical, really. I do want to write about just my visit to the temple separately, but for now I will say: This was a deeply spiritual experience for me. One of the richest temples in the world, with stunning Dravidian architecture, gold-plated exteriors, and an energy that’s hard to put into words, I felt like I was called here – there is no other way of explaining this without sounding loony, but trust me on this.

Another way I look at this whole whirlwind darshan I got to have is that a year back, I wished to visit Lord Vishnu’s special temple, and within a year, the wish was granted. And we were lucky to visit it on a very auspicious day, got to do uninterrupted darshans from all three dwars without having to rush forward, and also – by a stroke of crazy luck – got to witness the Gods’ midday Sawari.

The temple is over 5000 years old, is stunning in every corner and at every turn, and is about 30 minutes from the Leela Kovalam resort. Note: There’s a dress code (traditional attire) and time slots, so plan accordingly.

2. Azhimala Temple and Cave

An architectural delight and a hidden gem. Hidden from us, actually, because we did not know about this, and our amazing taxi driver urged us to visit this. Thank God we took his advice because this was an unexpected delight. The temple is perched on a cliff, with caves carved into the rock and panoramic views of the coastline. The caves, oh the caves! Statues so mesmerizing that you will need to stop and absorb the beauty before moving on to the next, I promise you. It’s peaceful, beautiful, and not overly crowded. My daughter loved exploring the caves, and we spent a good hour just soaking in the views. The process is very well organized, and at the end of it, we bought delicious and fresh prasadam, which was INR 25 per packet.

3. Shopping for Spices, Banana Chips, and Sarees

We visited the state-run handloom and handicraft store called Kaitharikada Handlooms and picked up gorgeous traditional sarees at surprisingly reasonable prices. The quality was top-notch, and the staff was helpful without being pushy.

We also stopped at a local shop (almost next to the handloom shop) on the main road to the resort and bought an alarming amount of banana chips (so many varieties!) and rose cookies (dangerously delicious). And the spices? Fragrant, pure, and authentic. We stocked up on cardamom, pepper, and cinnamon: the kind you can actually smell from across the room. This was also our gift for everyone back home – banana chips and spices.

4. The Resort’s Private Beach

The resort has its own private beach alongside one of its restaurants called “The Tides”. It has access to water sports like speed boating, kayaking, and more. My daughter wanted to try speed boating, so we did it, saw the pretty lighthouse, the new Adani port, and a lot more. We also saw other guests heading out for backwater tours, which we didn’t do this time but would have loved to try.

The beach itself is gorgeous; less crowded, cleaner, and with that secluded vibe that makes you feel like you’ve discovered a secret spot. And the bar here serves good cocktails and food.

Why The Leela Kovalam is Perfect for Families (and Anyone Escaping North India’s Winter)

Here’s the thing: selecting a hotel to stay with family is not really easy. With Luxury resorts, there is a chance that it is too formal for families with kids. Sometimes it is also about choosing one thing over the other – great views over spacious accommodation, proximity to certain areas of preference over good service, and many more. It can be tough to have everything on one’s list checked. But The Leela Kovalam strikes that perfect balance. It’s elegant and sophisticated, yes, but it’s also warm, welcoming, and genuinely family-friendly.

My daughter had the time of her life, pool, beach, speed boating, unlimited appams, and a Diwali celebration she won’t forget. My husband and I got to relax, unwind, and actually enjoy a vacation without constantly worrying about logistics (because the staff handled everything seamlessly). We especially loved that our villa was spacious enough for the three of us and our luggage, because that has been a constant worry for us for the past couple of years, and we usually don’t stay at hotels/resorts that don’t have suites with two connected bedrooms. This was a pleasant experience.

And for people staying in North India specifically? This is your short escape from pollution and winter. While everyone back home is complaining about smog and cold mornings, you’ll be sipping coconut water by the sea, getting Ayurvedic massages, and eating the freshest seafood of your life.

Kovalam is just a 2.5-hour flight from Delhi, and once you’re there, you’re in a completely different world.

Final Thoughts

The Leela Kovalam, A Raviz Hotel, isn’t just a place to stay, it’s an experience. From the clifftop views and royal history to the impeccable service and incredible food, everything about this resort feels thoughtfully curated.

Would we go back? Absolutely. My daughter has already started planning our next trip (she wants to try the backwater tour and spend even more time on the main pool this time). And honestly, I’m not going to argue with her.

If you’re looking for a luxury escape that feels both indulgent and grounded, where you can disconnect from the chaos and reconnect with your family (and maybe discover your own appam or cliff-view obsession), The Leela Kovalam is it.

Just make sure you leave room in your suitcase for banana chips. We carried our huge bags of banana chips as hand baggage – not recommended.

Practical Details:

• Location: Kovalam, Kerala (about 16 km from Trivandrum International Airport)
• Best time to visit: October to March (we visited in October during Diwali, and the weather was perfect, with some rain)
• Villa/Room types: We stayed in a Garden View Villa; the resort also offers Sea View Rooms, Club Rooms, and Palace Suites. My advice is to book ahead of time so that you get the accommodation of your choice. For my next visit, I’d love to stay at one of the Club Rooms and have access to it’s stunning infinity pool. (Yes, the main pool at The Leela Kovalam is also an infinity pool in a way, but the pool of the club is the real deal because it literally ends over the sea)
• For families: Highly recommend. Kid-friendly without sacrificing luxury.
• Booking: We booked directly through the hotel – we called them, and then the conversation was closed over email.
• Getting there from Delhi: Direct flights to Trivandrum (approx. 2.5 hours). Then, about half an hour from the airport (depending on traffic).

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